Arrival
Our journey begins in Los Angeles. We leave on a 747, and after a day of travel, arrive by boat at Beqa Island, Fiji, population 160. We are here to experience the adventures that Fiji will offer to us lead by Lawrence Groth of Shark Diving International.

Diving begins on the reef. Fiji's reefs are some of the best in the world. What we see that first day would satisfy most divers. But we demand a little more. Butterfly fish and tiger sharks both have stripes, but they do not cast equal shadows. So we have a Mai Tai that night beneath the Southern Cross and talk about the upcoming days.

First Shark Dives
Beqa lagoon all but guarantees bull sharks, and they make their first appearance within minutes of our first shark dive. For those who have dove with reef sharks in the Caribbean, the feed has a familiar feel to it, except that these bull sharks could eat the reef sharks. Clouds and rain above, however, and a plethora of fish, make photography a challenge. So while we find ourselves ecstatic with the days, made all the more special by the welcome company of Brett the tiger shark on day three, I still seek a photo I envision for my office wall. Over a Fiji Gold with divers and friends that evening, the gears in my mind work on how to really nail the shots the next time.

Half Time Show

Dive day four affords a day to focus on the reefs. This is the half time show. Fiji's reefs offer soft corals and lots of color that the camera strobes bring out in amazing detail. We seek sharks, yes, but we have much more to see on all these days. Local villages invite us to visit and see their way of life. A waterfall graces the cliffs up high for those willing to make the climb. Firewalkers show their art of stepping on blistering stones. A church choir sings beautiful Fijian melodies.

We finish dive day four with a Kava ceremony, and talk about the upcoming and last shark day. I am not familiar with Kava, and soon learn that it works like coffee. This means that after five bowls, I guarantee that I will watch the Southern Cross reappear from the clouds at about three in the morning. The weather clears. The coming day looks promising. I finally get some sleep and wake up charged to go. All we need is our tiger shark. Could we be so fortunate to see her twice?

The Return of Brett
The last shark dive starts with the repertoire of bull sharks, but not too long into the second and last shark dive of the trip, Brett the tiger shark appears again. Brett claims ownership of the place, and methodically checks out the scene. She takes particular interest in my camera, and makes no less than three attempts to connect with it while the shark diving staff pushes her away with their poles. On her third try, everything comes together. I focus on getting the shot while Brett focuses on getting past the dive staff and connecting with my camera. We both succeed. Brett bumps my camera, and after a couple more photos, I give her gentle hello in return by running my hand along her pectoral fin. I have the shot I was after and then some.

Bonus
Brett's second appearance creates some very happy shark divers. No one leaves the water anything but satisfied with the grand finale of her appearance. Not to be over demanding, however, I have just one more thing. Over a cocktail that evening, it dawns on me, and I state the same to a couple of other divers, that this could be my first major tropical dive vacation where I do not see at least one barracuda. The local sea gods eavesdrop on my conversation. The next day hundreds of barracuda surround me in an aquatic dance lit up by my strobes. I have no witnesses to this. I am momentarily alone. But I do have the shots to prove it. Fiji really delivers!!!

Bure Kalou
We have our last meal of the trip at the Bure Kalou. This tall thatched roof centerpiece of the resort has been the site of excellent meals of Mahi Mahi, Wahoo, Chicken and an assortment of other fare. Many of us have gone native, and wear complete Sulu with Bula shirts. We listen to more songs, watch dances performed for us, and complete a list of cocktails so that, throughout the trip, we will have tried every one. Through the evening and the morning after, we exchange cards and addresses with those we have not already.

Epilogue

Days later, I am back home, but I can still hear "TODAY IS THE DAY" loud and clear in my mind. My re-entry is not complete. I picked up a necklace with a shark carved out of bone. It seems like an earned souvenir after connecting with our tiger shark. I don't think I will be taking this off any time soon. Sometimes, the nature of the souvenir's people take home shows something about their feelings of the experience, and there was no shortage of significant ironwood carvings and other Fijian artwork taken back at the end of this trip.

By Robert Cantrell
www.robertcantrell.com

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